ESB

ESB

There is no real explanation why the ESB isn't wildly popular in the United States. A balanced, full bodied pale ale, the ESB was practically created to induce conversation across barstools. Originally called Cask Ale, the ESB has evolved over generations of British brewers and tavern owners to become a distinctly English drink. 

The ESB is a subgenre of the classic Bitter Ale. In the old days, when taxes were levied differently than they are today. Instead of the individual pour having taxes placed on it, the coal used to heat the brewing water and kiln the grains was taxed. Malts that were kilned were more expensive, therefore, than the roasted malts in darker beers. Consequently, darker beers, like porters and stouts became more popular, and lighter beers, being more expensive were sent out to export markets on continental Europe and a more sophisticated beer audience. 

However, these policies had to change due to the Napoleonic Wars, and in the 1840's, the coal tax had been eliminated from the brewer's stressors. Instead, the British government decided to levy the tax on the original gravity of the beer. In order to maintain an alcohol percentage and deal with these taxes, adjunct grains such as corn and rice were added to mashes, as they were cheaper than barley or wheat, so the cost of the taxes could be offset. Even cheaper sugars were also used in a pinch to raise the gravity of the beer without spending too much on grains. 

During the 19th century, when all of these tax shenanigans were in full operation, the demand for beer in England hadn't diminished. Gin was the drink of the aristocracy, but beer was still the choice of the majority. Now that gravity was being taxed instead of color or malt, lighter malts, along with the adjunct grains, were becoming the primary grist of pub ales. These were the beers that each pub made as their house beer, what we today would be considered a pale ale. These ales are still, today, separated into three categories: Bitter, Special Bitter, and Extra Special Bitter.

The Extra Special Bitter, or ESB, was the most robust of the three. All of them were cask (barrel) aged, with the ESB given more time to mature in the wooded vessel than the rest. This cask was also where second stage fermentation took place, so any carbonation was naturally occurring. This was also it's serving vessel, often placed on top of the bar, with the pouring engine jammed into it with a mallet. The traditional warm beer temperature of British beers comes partly from this cask practice, and the Real Ale movement of recent years considers it part of their verification process. 

The ESB as a style is stronger, slightly darker, and has a more robust flavor profile than it's relatives. It is well hopped with a malty sweetness that creates a balanced and flavorful beer that can be enjoyed during any season or event. The classic ESB is still produced by Fuller's Brewery in London, and some craft breweries in America have put it in their rotation as well. It remains a popular beer in the UK, however the commercialization of the last century has made the style more predictable than when it was developed. As technology and health codes have improved, the ESB has gone from pub-specific ale with was varying flavor profile to a pale ale with a little more character than traditional American pales. 

On a personal note, I love an ESB and don't understand why something so easy can be washed aside for hype beers that don't taste like beer. The ESB is a beer flavored beer. A beer for the average person who just wants something to sip on. 

ESB RECIPE

8 1/2 lb 2-Row Pale Ale Malt

3/4 lb 40L Caramel Malt

1 lb Flaked Corn

2 oz East Kent Golding Hops

1 oz Fuggles Hops

S-04 Dry English Ale Yeast

1 tsp Irish Moss

Grains Used

2-Row Pale Ale Malt: A basic base malt, this won’t impart too much color and very little flavor. It is a pretty clean, crisp malt that works well with specialty grains and pretty much any style of beer. American varieties are generally less starchy and lighter than English breeds.

40L Caramel Malt: This specialty malt will contribute not only a fair amount of sweetness, but also a beautiful color that makes this beer stand out from its mellower cousins. 40 is a mid range Caramel malt, with lower numbers (10, 20, etc) being much milder and higher being stronger flavored and darker. 

Flaked Corn Corn was used to impart more alcohol to beer without having to use more expensive barley. It doesn't add much color, but it does contribute to the overall sweetness of the beer while also adding some body and mouthfeel to the final product. 

Hops Used

Fuggle: A versatile and traditional English hop variety, Fuggle was introduced in the 19^th century and has been a staple of British beers ever since. Usually an aromatic hop, it can be used at any point in the brewing process. In this case, its low Alpha Acid levels make it a perfect bittering hop for low IBU Porter beers.

East Kent Goldings: An English hop variety from the 18^th century, this traditionally aromatic British hop is widely used across all styles of homebrewed beer. Slightly sweet, earthy, and floral, East Kent Goldings are generally considered to be the quintessential English hops.

Yeast Used

SafAle S-04: A basic English dry yeast strain that works well across all styles but really thrives in malty and dark ales. Top fermenting and reliable, S-04 dry yeast can handle most low to medium ABV beers, it ferments quickly and creates a tight sediment base, increasing the clarity of lighter English ales while still retaining the hearty characteristics of pub beer.

Irish Moss: We use Irish Moss as a clarifying agent. These negatively charged seaweed particles attract proteins and other free radicals in your boil kettle and drag them to the bottom once cooled, thereby removing haze from your final product. Whirlfloc tablets are another option for this process. Regardless of your preferred methods of clarity, it is important that beers of this style are clear. Lagering can do this as well, but most home brewers don't have that capability, so adding Irish Moss (or something similar) can work wonders for cleaning up the beer.